1. Introduction
Just 24 hours ago, a major construction firm in Texas halted work on a new commercial development after discovering premature corrosion on its newly installed zinc clad roof—a costly reminder that even premium metal cladding systems demand proper handling and maintenance. As metal clad buildings surge in popularity for their durability, modern aesthetics, and sustainability, more DIYers and professionals alike are encountering real-world challenges that aren’t covered in brochures. Whether you’re installing a corten steel facade, running metal clad electrical wire, or choosing between copper siding and corrugated steel, this guide walks you through seven common problems—and how to fix them fast.
2. Rust and Corrosion on Metal Clad Surfaces
One of the biggest misconceptions about metal clad systems is that they’re immune to rust. While materials like stainless steel plate, aluminum clad steel, and zinc metal siding offer excellent resistance, improper installation or exposure to harsh environments can still lead to corrosion—especially on mild steel plate or untreated carbon steel plate.
- Always verify the base metal and coating type before installation. For coastal areas, opt for 316 stainless steel plate or aluminum 5052 sheet instead of standard mild steel.
- If rust appears on a metal clad wall or steel clad house, clean the area with a wire brush, apply a rust converter, and seal with a high-quality metal primer and topcoat compatible with your cladding material.
- For corten steel siding, remember that its protective patina takes 1–3 years to form—during this period, runoff can stain adjacent surfaces. Install drip edges or sacrificial gutters to manage staining.
3. Improper Installation of Metal Clad Roofing and Siding
Gaps, buckling, or water infiltration often stem from incorrect fastening or thermal expansion oversight—common with vertical standing seam metal siding, colorbond standing seam, or pac clad standing seam roof systems.
- Use manufacturer-recommended clips and fasteners. For standing seam facade panels, never over-tighten screws; allow for movement.
- Ensure proper overlap on exterior corrugated metal siding—typically 1.5 to 2 corrugations—and seal end laps with butyl tape.
- When installing a zinc clad dormer or pac clad column covers, account for thermal expansion by leaving a 1/8-inch gap per 10 feet of panel length.
4. Electrical Wiring Issues with Metal Clad Cable
Metal clad electrical wire (often called MC cable) is widely used in commercial buildings, including in Pennsylvania, but mistakes in routing or grounding can create safety hazards.
- Always use listed MC cable connectors when entering junction boxes—never strip the armor and treat it like NM cable.
- For outdoor runs, confirm the cable is rated for wet locations (look for ‘-W’ suffix). Aluminum clad steel wire is acceptable outdoors if properly sealed.
- Bond the armor to the grounding system per NEC Article 330. Don’t assume the armor alone provides an equipment grounding conductor unless it’s listed as such.
5. Aesthetic Mismatches and Color Fading
Choosing the right finish is critical. A steel facade may look sleek in the showroom but appear dull or mismatched under natural light—especially when paired with existing brick or wood elements.
- Request full-size samples of corten steel siding, copper siding, or zinc facade panels and view them at different times of day.
- Understand that corten siding cost includes long-term visual evolution—its rust-like appearance isn’t a defect but a feature. If you want consistent color, consider pre-weathered or painted alternatives like pac clad hwp.
- For metal clad houses in historic districts, check local codes—some areas restrict shiny or reflective finishes like chrome metal or gold coating.
6. Condensation and Insulation Problems
Metal clad buildings often suffer from interior condensation if insulation isn’t properly detailed—especially with metal clad insulation systems or aluminum clad pipe insulation.
- Always install a vapor barrier on the warm side of the insulation in cold climates.
- Use closed-cell spray foam or rigid board insulation behind metal weatherboard or metal clad siding to minimize thermal bridging.
- In sheds or metal clad sheds, add ventilation (soffit and ridge vents) to reduce moisture buildup under a metal clad roof.
7. Cutting and Fabrication Challenges
Working with thick steel plate, diamond plate steel, or alloy plate requires the right tools. Attempting to cut 1/4 steel plate with tin snips will damage both material and tool.
- Use a cold saw, plasma cutter, or abrasive chop saw for clean cuts on stainless steel metal plate, boiler plate steel, or 3/16 metal plate.
- For aluminum diamond tread plate or 3mm aluminium checker plate, a carbide-tipped blade on a circular saw works well.
- Always wear PPE—metal sheet cutting generates sharp edges and fine particulates, especially with nickel plates or titanium plate.
8. Conclusion
Metal clad systems—from clad metals like aluminum clad stainless steel to architectural features like a corten steel plate accent wall—offer unmatched longevity and style when installed and maintained correctly. By addressing these seven common pitfalls early, you’ll avoid costly callbacks, aesthetic disappointments, and safety issues. Whether you’re building a steel clad inc structure or renovating a metal clad house, remember: the devil’s in the details, and the details are in the cladding.
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