1. Introduction
Metal clad construction has surged in popularity thanks to its sleek look, longevity, and low maintenance. From a steel clad house with vertical standing seam metal siding to a commercial metal clad building wrapped in a corten steel facade, these structures blend form and function. But like any building system, metal cladding isn’t immune to problems. Rust, thermal bridging, improper fastening, and aesthetic fading are just a few headaches homeowners and contractors face. The good news? Most issues are preventable or fixable with the right knowledge. In this guide, we’ll tackle seven common problems—and their practical solutions—so your metal clad project stays strong, stylish, and weather-tight.
2. Problem: Rust and Corrosion on Exposed Steel Surfaces
Even though many clad metals come with protective coatings, scratches, cut edges, or poor drainage can expose bare steel to moisture, leading to rust—especially on mild steel plate or boiler plate steel used in exterior corrugated metal siding. Corten steel siding is designed to rust in a controlled way, forming a stable patina, but standard carbon steel plate isn’t.
- Inspect all metal clad surfaces annually, especially near joints, seams, and fasteners.
- Sand rusted areas down to clean metal using 80-grit sandpaper.
- Apply a rust-inhibiting primer followed by a high-quality topcoat compatible with your metal type (e.g., zinc-rich paint for galvanized steel).
- For long-term protection, consider upgrading to stainless steel plate, aluminum clad steel, or zinc metal siding, which resist corrosion far better than untreated steel.
3. Problem: Poor Thermal Performance and Condensation
Metal conducts heat and cold efficiently—which means a metal clad wall or roof without proper insulation can lead to energy loss and interior condensation. This is especially true for metal clad sheds or uninsulated metal clad buildings in humid climates.
Always pair your metal cladding with appropriate metal clad insulation. For walls, use rigid foam boards or mineral wool between studs before installing the outer skin. For roofs, install a vapor barrier beneath the decking and ensure adequate attic ventilation if it’s a metal clad roof over a conditioned space. Aluminum clad pipe insulation can also help on exposed conduits or HVAC lines penetrating the envelope. Remember: a well-insulated steel clad house performs as well as any traditional build—if not better.
4. Problem: Oil Canning or Panel Distortion
Oil canning—the wavy, rippled appearance on large flat metal panels—is common with thin-gauge metal clad siding like colorbond standing seam or pac clad standing seam roof systems. It’s mostly cosmetic but can be unsightly on a pristine steel facade.
- Choose textured or striated panels instead of perfectly flat ones—they hide minor distortions.
- Ensure substructure framing is level and spaced correctly (typically 16–24 inches on center).
- Avoid over-tightening fasteners; allow slight movement to prevent stress buckling.
- For existing oil canning, adding subtle ribs or shadow lines via trim (like pac clad column covers or coping) can visually break up the surface.
5. Problem: Fastener Failure or Leaky Seams
Improperly installed fasteners or poorly sealed seams are leading causes of leaks in a metal clad roof or wall. This is critical with systems like standing seam siding or corrugated steel facade panels where water can track behind laps.
Use only manufacturer-recommended fasteners with EPDM washers rated for your specific metal type—aluminum clad steel wire fasteners won’t work on copper siding, for example. For standing seam systems, opt for concealed clips rather than through-fastened panels when possible. Seal all penetrations (vents, skylights, etc.) with compatible butyl tape or liquid flashing. If you’re working with pac clad hwp or pac clad coping, follow the fabricator’s detailing specs precisely—these components are engineered for tight integration.
6. Problem: Fading or Chalking of Painted Finishes
Over time, UV exposure can cause painted metal clad surfaces—like those on a metal clad house finished in Colorbond—to fade, chalk, or peel. This affects both aesthetics and long-term protection.
Clean the surface with mild detergent and water. Rinse thoroughly. Lightly sand glossy areas to promote adhesion. Apply a metal-specific primer, then repaint with a high-quality acrylic or PVDF-coated finish. For premium longevity, consider switching to naturally patinating metals like copper siding or zinc clad roof systems, which age gracefully without paint. Zinc clad dormers and corten steel siding cost more upfront but eliminate repainting cycles entirely.
7. Problem: Electrical and Safety Code Confusion with Metal Clad Wiring
Many DIYers and even pros get confused about where and how to use metal clad electrical wire (also called MC cable). Can it be run outside? Surface-mounted? Used in Pennsylvania commercial builds?
Yes—metal clad electrical wire is permitted in most commercial and residential applications per NEC Article 330, including surface mounting and outdoor use, provided it’s rated for wet locations (look for ‘MC-WL’ marking). Always use listed fittings when connecting to boxes, and never cut the armor without a proper rotary cutter to avoid sharp edges that could damage conductors. Note: aluminum clad wire and cu clad wire serve different purposes—don’t substitute one for the other. And remember: AF CI protection may still be required on certain circuits, regardless of conduit type.
8. Conclusion
Metal clad systems—from stainless clad aluminum facades to corrugated steel siding—offer unmatched durability when installed and maintained correctly. By addressing corrosion early, insulating properly, choosing the right panel profile, sealing seams meticulously, and following electrical codes, you’ll maximize performance and curb appeal. Whether you’re building a new metal clad shed or renovating a steel clad inc commercial property, these seven fixes will keep your project looking sharp and functioning flawlessly for decades.
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