1. Introduction
Just 24 hours ago, a major construction firm in Texas halted work on a new commercial complex due to unexpected corrosion on its newly installed corrugated steel facade—highlighting how even seasoned builders can stumble with metal clad applications. Whether you’re installing a metal clad house, repairing a steel clad shed, or running metal clad electrical wire, understanding common pitfalls is key to avoiding costly delays.
Metal clad isn’t just a buzzword—it’s a versatile solution used across architecture and engineering. From zinc clad dormers to aluminum clad pipe insulation, the term ‘metal clad’ (or ‘metalclad’) broadly refers to materials where one metal is bonded to another for enhanced performance. But with so many types—clad steel, titanium clad, stainless clad aluminum—it’s easy to get overwhelmed. This guide breaks down seven real-world problems and gives you actionable fixes.
2. Problem #1: Rust or Staining on Corten Steel Siding
Corten steel siding is prized for its weathered look, but premature rust streaks or uneven patina can ruin your metal clad wall’s aesthetics.
Solution:
- Allow proper runoff: Ensure gutters and overhangs direct water away from vertical surfaces.
- Avoid contact with dissimilar metals: Don’t let copper or galvanized steel touch corten—this causes galvanic corrosion.
- Rinse during dry spells: In low-rainfall areas, manually rinse the surface every few weeks to encourage uniform oxidation.
Pro tip: Corten siding cost varies widely; investing in pre-weathered panels from reputable suppliers like Steel Clad Inc. can reduce early-stage staining.
3. Problem #2: Leaks in Metal Clad Roof Installations
Standing seam siding—especially Colorbond standing seam or PAC Clad HWP—looks sleek but can leak if clips or seams aren’t installed correctly.
Solution:
- Use manufacturer-recommended fasteners and clip spacing.
- Install PAC Clad coping at roof edges to prevent wind-driven rain intrusion.
- Seal penetrations (vents, skylights) with compatible butyl tape, not generic caulk.
For sheds or small structures using exterior corrugated metal siding, always overlap sheets by at least one full corrugation and use neoprene washers on screws.
4. Problem #3: Difficulty Cutting or Bending Clad Metals
Trying to cut aluminum clad steel or 1/8 inch steel plate without the right tools leads to jagged edges or delamination.
Solution:
- Use carbide-tipped blades for metal sheet cutting—standard saw blades dull quickly.
- For precision work on stainless steel plate or aluminum 6061 T6 plate, opt for a CNC plasma cutter or shear.
- When bending clad metal meaning layered composites (like aluminum clad stainless steel), bend with the grain and avoid sharp radii to prevent separation.
Always wear PPE—flying metal shards from diamond plate steel or mild steel plate are no joke.
5. Problem #4: Electrical Code Confusion with Metal Clad Wiring
Contractors often ask: ‘Can metal clad wire be used outside?’ or ‘Do I need AFCI breakers with armored metal clad?’
Solution:
- Yes, metal clad electrical wire (including aluminum clad steel wire or CU clad wire) is approved for outdoor and commercial use in Pennsylvania and most U.S. jurisdictions—when installed per NEC Article 330.
- AFCI protection is generally required for 120V branch circuits in living areas, regardless of cable type.
- Always ground the armor properly using listed fittings when connecting to junction boxes.
Never confuse metal clad wire with non-metallic sheathed cable—its armor provides mechanical protection but doesn’t eliminate grounding requirements.
6. Problem #5: Paint Peeling on Metal Clad Window Trim or Doors
Repainting a metal clad front door or window trim? Old paint often bubbles or flakes if surface prep is skipped.
Solution:
- Remove loose paint with a wire brush or orbital sander.
- Clean with TSP substitute to remove oils and chalk.
- Apply a rust-inhibiting primer rated for metal (e.g., zinc-rich or epoxy-based).
- Finish with a high-quality acrylic latex or urethane-modified paint.
Avoid painting in direct sun—heat accelerates drying and causes poor adhesion on steel plate or aluminum clad sheet surfaces.
7. Problem #6: Choosing the Wrong Clad Type for Climate
Installing zinc metal siding in a coastal area? Or copper siding in an industrial zone? Material mismatch leads to rapid degradation.
Solution:
- Coastal/high-humidity zones: Use marine-grade alloys like 5083 aluminum plate or 316 stainless steel plate.
- Industrial/polluted areas: Titanium clad or Inconel 625 overlay offer superior resistance.
- Urban settings: Corten steel plate works well but requires runoff management.
Check ASTM A387 or alloy plate specs before purchasing—don’t assume ‘stainless’ means all grades perform equally.
8. Problem #7: Poor Insulation Performance in Metal Clad Buildings
A metal clad shed or steel clad building can become an oven in summer if insulation isn’t addressed.
Solution:
- Use metal clad insulation with reflective barriers (e.g., foil-faced polyiso).
- Create an air gap between the metal cladding and insulation to reduce thermal bridging.
- For walls, consider vertical standing seam metal siding over rigid foam board.
Remember: Aluminum clad pipe insulation isn’t just for pipes—it can also line interior cavities in metal weatherboard systems for added R-value.
9. Conclusion
Working with metal clad systems—from zinc clad roofs to clad steel structural elements—demands attention to detail, climate awareness, and code compliance. By anticipating these seven common issues and applying the fixes above, you’ll save time, money, and headaches. Whether you’re sourcing 3mm aluminium checker plate or specifying PAC Clad column covers, always prioritize compatibility, proper installation, and long-term maintenance.
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