1. Introduction
Just 24 hours ago, a major storm system swept across the Midwest, leaving thousands of metal clad buildings with damaged roofs and compromised siding. Homeowners are now scrambling to identify whether their metal clad roof used pac clad standing seam panels or corrugated steel—and how to fix leaks fast. If you own a metal clad house or manage a metal clad building, knowing how to handle common failures is essential.
Metal clad systems—whether used for walls, roofs, or wiring—offer durability and style, but they’re not immune to problems. From misunderstood clad metal meaning to botched installations of vertical standing seam metal siding, errors can lead to costly repairs. This guide walks you through seven real-world issues and how to solve them properly.
2. Problem #1: Rust or Staining on Corten Steel Siding
Corten steel facade panels develop a protective rust patina—but sometimes, runoff stains adjacent surfaces or uneven weathering creates blotchy patches.
- Allow full weathering (6–18 months) before judging appearance.
- Install drip edges or gutters to control runoff from corten steel siding.
- Never paint or seal corten—it defeats its self-protecting purpose.
- Compare corten siding cost vs. long-term maintenance: it’s low upkeep once stabilized.
3. Problem #2: Leaks in Metal Clad Roof Systems
Standing seam roofs like colorbond standing seam or pac clad hwp are watertight when installed correctly—but poor flashing or incorrect clip spacing causes leaks.
Solution:
- Inspect seams and penetrations (vents, skylights) after heavy rain.
- Ensure pac clad coping and column covers are sealed with compatible sealants.
- Use zinc clad roof or zinc clad dormer details only with trained installers—zinc expands/contracts significantly.
- For corrugated steel facade roofs, verify overlap length meets local wind-load codes.
4. Problem #3: Confusion Over Metal Clad Electrical Wiring
Many DIYers mistake metal clad electrical wire (MC cable) for armored cable (AC). Using the wrong type—or installing it incorrectly—violates code and risks fire.
Solution:
- Metal clad wire must be secured within 12 inches of boxes and every 6 feet thereafter.
- In Pennsylvania and most commercial settings, MC cable is allowed—but requires proper grounding bushings.
- Never use aluminum clad steel wire or cu clad wire for branch circuits unless rated for it.
- Always check if AFCI protection is required—even with metal clad circuits.
5. Problem #4: Poor Adhesion When Painting Metal Clad Walls
Trying to repaint metal clad window trim or a steel clad house without surface prep leads to peeling within months.
Solution:
- Clean with TSP substitute, then sand glossy areas lightly.
- Apply a rust-inhibiting primer if any oxidation exists.
- Use 100% acrylic latex paint formulated for metal—never oil-based on galvanized surfaces.
- For exterior corrugated metal siding, consider factory-finished options like Colorbond to avoid repainting altogether.
6. Problem #5: Thermal Bridging in Metal Clad Insulation
Aluminum clad pipe insulation or metal clad insulation on walls can create cold spots if not detailed properly.
Solution:
- Use continuous insulation (CI) behind metal clad wall panels.
- Avoid compressing batt insulation between studs—opt for rigid foam or mineral wool boards.
- Seal all joints in aluminum clad sheet or stainless clad aluminum layers with vapor-permeable tape.
- Remember: metal conducts heat—break the bridge with thermal breaks in framing.
7. Problem #6: Corrosion at Dissimilar Metal Junctions
Mixing copper siding with aluminum clad steel or stainless plate near mild steel plate invites galvanic corrosion.
Solution:
- Never let copper and aluminum touch directly—use dielectric unions or isolation gaskets.
- Choose compatible metals: e.g., zinc metal siding pairs well with corten steel plate but not with untreated carbon steel.
- Apply protective coatings like electroless nickel or chromium electroplating on fasteners in harsh environments.
8. Problem #7: Misunderstanding Clad Metal Meaning in Materials
Terms like ‘alloy clad,’ ‘2024 t3 clad,’ or ‘titanium clad’ confuse buyers expecting solid metal performance.
Solution:
- Clad metals = thin layer of premium metal (e.g., copper, titanium) bonded to cheaper core (e.g., steel, aluminum).
- Verify specs: stainless clad aluminum offers corrosion resistance but isn’t as strong as solid stainless steel plate.
- For structural uses (e.g., base plates, diamond plate steel), opt for solid 316 stainless steel plate—not just surface-clad versions.
- When buying steel plate near me, ask: ‘Is this clad or solid?’—especially for boiler plate steel or 1/4 steel plate applications.
9. Conclusion
Whether you’re maintaining a metal clad shed, wiring a steel clad building, or choosing between a zinc facade and corten steel siding, understanding these common pitfalls prevents expensive mistakes. Always match materials to environment, follow installation best practices, and respect the true metal clad meaning: a composite system that performs only as well as its weakest interface.
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